Pietro Tomajer

Collect meaningful pieces, don't follow hype and build your knowledge. Knowledge makes you make more aware choices and dramatically limits the likelihood of having any regret. Also, wear and enjoy your watches.

Until 20 years ago knowledge about watches was built mainly through specialised magazines and a few corporate events which, for the most part, did not include watch collectors. Today, watchmaking knowledge is free, not controlled by media but fed by an enormous amount of sources, more or less independent. The result is more information, more variety, more awareness, more knowledge.

In the past independent and artisan watchmakers were playing a role 'behind the scenes', inspiring mainstream brands towards innovation and creativity. Now that both creativity and innovation have become absolute paramount for any watch brand or watchmakers to stand out in the very crowded arena, the independents have become the absolute motor and driver.

Listening to collectors is the most important factor to drive a business forward. The hobby of collecting watches should be fun, enriching, and able to make permanent memories. By listening and exchanging with collectors not only we increase our knowledge but we are in the position of truly understand what matters when living the experience of researching, checking, comparing and, only finally, purchasing a timepiece. Every day spent with one of our collectors is a learning day.

We are sons of the pandemic and the digital online experience, which was predominant in developing our educational platform.

These days, with the opening of the showroom and the many physical events, we totally recognise the power and the preciousness of meeting face to face, spending meaningful time with our collectors. All the TLE stakeholders are genuine watch collectors, and they got involved for the pleasure of building those relationships and meaningful moments.

The last watch I acquired was the GoS 'Sky is the Limit'. In many ways this piece encapsulates both my approach as a collector and as what TLE wants to stand for.

There is always a 'next piece' to aspire for, because, as Jean Claude Biver would say, 'you can't retire from a passion'. My eyes are definitely on a Vianney Halter, most probably the 'Reality of Time' which we humbly collaborated in conceiving and launching to the market. Today I am focusing my collection on watches I have been personally involved with, and built personal relationships with the creators.

It would probably be one per price category. It would be easy to escape this question, but let me say:

Attainable level: Ophion Black Ember

Value proposition: Kudoke Kudoktopus

Medium Level: Louis Moinet 1816 titanium

High end: Klanic Heure Sautante

Unattainable: Vianney Halter Deep Space (my 'grail')

The chase for hype at all costs. The hobby of collecting should be enjoyed with the calm necessary to make good and meaningful choices.

I admire too many people to mention. But a particular mention goes to the real pioneers, those who were pursuing their vision and dreams before it was cool to do so. Svend Andersen, Vincent Calabrese, Andreas Strehler, Vianney Halter, Ludovic Ballouard, Kari Voutilainen, Peter Speake, John McGonigle, Stepan Sarpaneva, Stephen McDonnell (I could not name them all) all of those who created a universe that only these days is actually recognised, as they contributed to make it so much easier for those approaching this magical profession today.

A special mention must also go to Max Busser and Felix and Martin from Urwerk. To my eyes, they have been the bridge between the first wave of independent watchmaking and the current, super promising wave of young ones. It is because of their work that I started to truly appreciate independent watchmaking (as I was initially admiring more brands such as JLC, Lange, Breguet and Cartier).

Rock music. No doubt. From the pioneers such as Hendrix, Black Sabbath and Bowie, to the incredible creative era of heavy metal and grunge (a word I don't fully like) in the 90's, where my artistic influence grew as I was also part of a Goth rock band in Milan at the time.

Meaning. I hate trends, I don't care about how slim or thin a watch is, I look at proportions, wearability and readability. But most of all, meaning.

There are so many incredible watches out there these days, it is like the rock scene in the 90's, choosing can become a daunting task. And that is where 'what a watch means to me' comes to help. That is, for me, the final decider.

Humility, honesty, curiosity. We decided to create and develop TLE because we believe it was somehow unfair to keep enticing collectors to chase 'what they could not have', through the use of hype, inflated auctions and aggressive marketing tactics.

Forcing them to swallow long waiting lists, pressure to buy other items to climb the AD's ranking and, ultimately, not enjoying the hobby for what we believe is right. We believe we have made our contribution and helped expose watchmaking talent that, only ten years ago, was unknown.

We were born and still are a conveyor, a facilitator, a place where discovery is in the first place. Somewhere to find inspiration and feed curiosity in a calm, reflective and warm environment, building relationships and looking for meaning. Online, in our showroom, at our events. And we hope we come across as genuine and accessible as we really hope to be.

Ultimately, the stars are the amazing watchmakers we are honoured to represent who have devoted their life to this, perhaps anachronistic but incredibly fascinating, mechanical art.