John Goldberger

What do you do to stay at the forefront of what we might call the watch collecting 'movement'?

I am sorry, but I do not follow the common trend. I try to think 'out of the box'. I am collecting what I like! Knowledge is a discreet but unmistakable luxury. You shouldn't be afraid of being different, you should be afraid of looking like all the other collectors. Never lose an opportunity to learn — go to auctions, speak to dealers and collectors, read books, visit museums and research online. The greatest wealth in watch collecting isn't owning the rarest and most expensive timepiece, but knowledge! It's passion that makes the difference, it's the passion to do something well, it's knowledge that justifies and honours my journey into watch collecting.

What is the latest watch to join the collection, and what was the last to leave it?

The last rare watch that I purchased, one year ago, is a unique pink gold Patek Philippe reference 1518 with matching pink gold dial. It came with original P.P. guarantee and with great provenance.

You own, and have owned, some of the rarest vintage wristwatches ever seen…

My collection is constantly evolving. I try to find the better example on the market in perfect condition with a good provenance. If you have considerable enthusiasm and passion backed up by modesty, common sense and perseverance, you are on the path to success.

If you had to pick your top five (sorry, I know it is like choosing a family member), which would you choose?

The pink gold 1518, the platinum Tank Cintrée from the '20s, a unique white gold rectangular Breguet with perpetual retrograde calendar, a white gold Cartier Pebble and a pink gold Patek 1526.

You have written some world acclaimed, and authoritative books on watches. Which are you most proud of, and why?

I published 10 books on watches. I try to give the right information to watch collectors with detailed photos — books from a collector to collectors. Maybe the Steel Patek Philippe Watches is the one I am most proud of. I anticipated the trend on stainless steel Patek timepieces from sports to complicated watches.

You are known for having an eye for originality and condition when analysing a watch. What has helped you develop this ability?

No compromises, dedication and discipline. Buy only watches with correct configurations and in perfect conditions. And the good relations with reputable dealers and auctioneers.

You have such elegance, style, and sophistication in the way you dress. What have been your influences?

Thanks! Maybe my father — he taught me to buy good quality fabrics and to pay attention to vintage military clothes in the flea-markets.

We have to ask: do you choose the watch first, and then the clothes — or the clothes first, and then the watch to complement them?

First clothes and after watches!

You have been a huge force, yet at the same time a quiet influence in the watch world.

I am not an 'influencer'. I am 68 years old and also I do not make money from social media, but sometime the old people are more consistent than the new generation of 'educators' in social media.

Would you tell us about your project with Leica and what it means to you?

I started taking photos at age of 12 — my father gave me a Leica IIIG, and at 18 I purchased my first Leicaflex. 'Timeless' indicates something enduring and perpetual that is not limited by a specific period, which maintains its value and beauty. The consistency of the design is very important.

The watch community is blessed to have you — a true 'Keeper of Time.' What would you like to be remembered for?

I am a keeper of knowledge and I am a custodian for the next generation. The kindness is my religion. Kindness costs nothing, but is worth everything.

If you could give your younger self one piece of collecting advice, what would it be?

• —Buy what you like and do not follow the common trend.
• —No compromises.
• —Dedication and discipline.
• —Buy only watches with correct configurations and in perfect condition.
• —Buy the seller, not the watch.
• —Be humble, lower your ego, don't be in competition with other collectors.